Madrid has just kicked off the fashion show season at the hands of Mans, led by Jaime Álvarez, who has presented his new collection, La décadence, a work with which he demonstrates his expertise when it comes to offering garments at night with unlimited possibilities through a style that breaks with the concept of gender. Some garments that give the house its essence back, banishing that aesthetic and casual relaxation that the pandemic imposed, and also the fashion films to return through the front door to luxury and partying.
-How has it been to do a face-to-face parade again, after everything you've experienced?
-I really wanted to go back to the physical show, really. In this time, since the confinement, we have changed a lot, the firm has established itself, we have become even more professional, I have a more mature team and it shows that we have had a clear evolution.
-For this collection you have been inspired by the 20s, by Art Deco... what else has it been based on?
-Yes, this collection speaks of the free aesthetics of the 1920s, the brutalist minimalism of Tamara de Lempicka, The Great Gatsby... But, above all, we have returned to our origins, to our beginnings , because we wanted to return to the luxury of tailoring, to the traditional, but with a somewhat dark, decadent air, which is a nod to cabaret.
-What made you choose this path?
-I wanted to return to good work, to elegant and fine tailoring. Sportswear is very good but, after two collections dedicated to it, we wanted to recover the tailoring and elegance that had been lost. The entire collection is a tribute to luxury, in the truest sense of the word.
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-The patterns are more vertical, silks and 'georgettes' are back, the 'Mans' of before is back.
-That's right. The shirts and blouses have changed and it is especially noticeable in the neckline. The cuts are closer to the shoulder and have a high neck, with pleated ruffles, very French. The pants fuse a modern and classic silhouette, with a straight cut that falls from the waist with a large pleat at the front. I have made my own version of the leopard print, I call it 'leopard 2.0'. Another pattern is an abstract motif, very arty, which is actually a version of the logo and the name of the house. The tuxedos are the most special pieces in the collection, in different versions, almost always playing with the color contrast between the body and the lapel.
-The coats are also great protagonists.
-This collection is very wintery. It is the first time that we work with fur pieces, and I have used a fake mink, it is synthetic fur. They have a feminine point, reminiscent of women's coats, to be worn on the naked body, with nothing underneath.
-I have read that David Delfín encouraged you to dedicate yourself to men's tailoring because of the great void that existed in this field.
-Yes, I studied women's fashion for only one year and then I plunged into men's fashion because I understood that there was a tremendous void. Currently the big brands, such as Zara and H&M, also contribute to open the eyes of men. It is no longer questioned whether a man dresses one way or another.
