1st throughout the years the canons of beauty have mutated linked to the prevailing style.The social context and the role of different designers have been key to transformation.We propose the exciting challenge of reviewing the evolution of fashion throughout history.
It all started with Charles Frederick Worth.In 1860 Steinglés resident in Paris, he had the idea of placing each dress that made a label with his signature.A, apparently insignificant detail, which was a fundamental change.From then on, the designs began to sign their creations resembling them to works of art, thus gaining prestige and recognition.In the words of the journalist Charlotte Seaming: "That was fashion, the rest simple clothing".
How did the history of fashion evolve?During the nineteenth century, the female body followed the prototype called ‘Arena Clock’.The world of sewing enhanced the upper and lower volumes, leaving the waist constrained by the corset.However, since the mid -19th century a movement began to free women from the bonds of this garment that began to be considered a symbol of oppression.
The invention of the bicycle, in 1885, contributed greatly to the liberalization of the female body.At the end of the 19th century many countries began working on a more functional fashion, and a great development of the dress took place.
The Poiret era
Considered the first fashion designer in history, the Frenchman Paul Poiret decided to declare war on corset.But their interests, far from seeking the comfort of women, were merely aesthetic.The division of the body into two fragments seemed ridiculous.In 1906 he designed a "La Vague" dress, with his sober and narrow lines the body was covered as a wave.Leaving behind the hooded beauty, the "Poiret woman" could move with agility without giving up elegance.
However, defined himself as the "fashion tyrant", Poiret created in 1910 the so -called skirt locked.This garment, given her narrowness, forced who led her to walk by tiny steps, because she barely allowed to walk.The alleged liberator of women ironic with their creation: "I have released their torsos but I have tied their legs".Fortunately his idea had little popularity.
In 1909 the Russian ballets acted for the first time in Paris.The fashion capital was hypnotized by the dance of the dancers, who full of rhythm and color emanated freedom.In turn, in the first decade of the 20th century, women's interest in sports activities, such as tennis or skiing proliferated.All this contributed to the female clothing, and the designs acquired mobility.
1914: The big change in fashion history
The outbreak of World War I, in 1914 was a great style transformation.The march of men in front accelerated the incorporation of women into work.Situation that had direct consequences in the way of dressing.
The prescriptions in the costumes were relegated and proliferated work clothes and uniforms.At this stage Coco Chanel highlighted.The designer had created an innovative collection of knitted dresses with which he knew how to make the functionality demands required in times of war..
Flapper style to correction
In the 20s, together with the cult of youth, Flapper aesthetics developed.The women shortened the hair and length of their dresses, showing their knees.And the corset was totally relegated.On the contrary, the 1929 crack inaugurated a stage of political changes and unemployment.Difficult times arrived, also for the fashion sector.
Despite the crisis, the interest in the right way of dressing that took place in the times of depression was striking.The main thing was to save appearances.As for style, it was sought to enhance the body without displaying it.Simple dresses were completed with skins and extravagant hats.And during the 1930s, the corsetry was imposed again.
In the years prior to the outbreak of World War II (1945), fashion had adopted some uniformed character: the shoulder pads widen, the skirts shorten and proliferated the use of high gloves, bandole bags and flat shoe.A formal aspect gave little room for innovation in designs.In front of the rest of the countries, only Paris, great capital of trends, was allowed some extravagance.
The New Look
The 50s were the decade par excellence of haute couture. The New Look de Christian Dior, surgido en 1947, abanderó el cambio.Far from progress, the woman's body crowded again.After the horrors of war, women wanted to feel beautiful and show the resurgence of a new time in their clothing.
The New Look, perfecta representación de tales deseos, se impuso con fuerza.This new style, and those that developed around it, was characterized by soft and fallen shoulders, the marked waist, rounded hips and very narrow sizes.
Twiggy or Jackie Kennedy?
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Two muses starred in the history of fashion in the 60s.This decade was full of youth protests, starting a counterculture.The economic recovery and the suffocating oppression of the bourgeois classes were the trigger.
The incarnation of the beauty ideal was on Twiggy, a languid English and forty kilos English model that became a mass idol.
Another determining woman was Jacqueline Kennedy, the first American lady became a style symbol.Lover of the great French firms was forced, in spite of, to dress with American designs in their public appearances;Sample of the influence of fashion in politics.
The most remarkable designer of the moment was Yves Saint Laurent.He started being Christian Dior's assistant and soon emerged as a real genius.Under his own signature, the Safari look and female tuxedo became two of his great successes.The end of the decade was marked by a mix of trends away from any fee.
In the 70s the thoughts were individualized, this decade being qualified by the journalist Tom Wolf "Me decade" (the decade of the self).This individuality was also evident in the history of fashion.Without fixed rules, each one chose what best adapted to their liking.
In turn, the anti-fashion term emerged.In that attempt at creative freedom, attention was sought by resorting to strident and unconventional looks.Various currents lived, from the rebel aesthetic punk to the dazzling brightness of study 54 or the Glam Rock revolution, whose main representative was David Bowie.The cowboy stood as the garment of the moment, suitable for all audiences and all occasions.
The excess of the 80s
"More is more".This phrase summarizes the aesthetics of the glamorous 80s.The new generation marked by the yuppies (young and wealthy professionals), not only spent money but also exhibited their status through appearance.The logo was imposed on quality.It was in this decade when the phenomenon of the so -called fashion victims arose.
Gianni Versace knew how to perfectly embody this spirit of excesses and materialism.On the opposite side, Giorgio Armani changed the concept of glamor to worship discrete elegance.Hollywood gave the charms of both teachers.The tops models of the moment, such as Claudia Schiffer or Naomi Campbell, embodied the ideal beauty model;With their measures of 90-60-90 they seemed authentic goddesses.
The arrival of the Internet completely revolutionized the fashion business;Nothing would be (nor will it be) the same.Impact?The collections arrived at the network seconds after showing itself on the catwalk, the market succumbed to the copy to the detriment of the creation and the consumer acquired a lot of power.
Kate Moss became the muse of the moment.In turn, a minimalist current triumphed in the face of the opulence of the 80.
Fashion is democratized
Millennium change generated an approach to fashion towards the masses.The celebrities began to mix luxury items with brands available to everyone, and renowned models or actresses lent their image to affordable clothing chains.
As for aesthetics, in 2000 he continued prevailing the thinness.And the eternal (and controversial) discussion of the sizes occupied numerous numbers.Fortunately, little by little the taste for healthy and athletic -looking bodies and models such as Gisele Bündchen, representatives of this type of beauty, triumphed in the catwalks, were recovering in the catwalks.
The economic crisis initiated in 2008, and the abundance of collections (an average of 500 per year) led to a certain climate of fatigue and dissatisfaction in the sector.Likewise, consciousness has gained strength in the industry and there are many brands, and consumers, who demand a more responsible model.The word sustainability marks a new chapter in the history of fashion.
In the first decade of 2000 a new phenomenon was gaining strength, that of blogs.Today, Instagram (and the influencers boom) has taken over to the blogosphere.With a likes is free to dictate trend.What will be the next step?