In the world before, less than 10 years ago, an eternity, Dior could sacrifice thousands of roses, orchids and spurs of gentleman to bloom the decoration of a parade.Everyone was amazed and nobody shed a tear for a single of the sacrificed orchids.The best seat of the front row was reserved for Harvey Weinstein.In the world of now, the fear of the accusation of echocide only allows, even being dior, the use of trees with carefully preserved roots that must be committed to replant.And Weinstein is alem.In less than 10 years, fashion, until now frivolous, wasteful and carefree, has received an avalanche of political, ethical and moral reproaches.Fashion rains accusations and echocide add overproduction, waste, cultural appropriation and even racism, lack of diversity...Accusations that never had to face.What exit does this sector have?It is clear: reinvent yourself.
Fast fashion is not free
Las calles de las capitales de la moda, París, Londres y Milán, han sido tomadas por los activistas muy jóvenes, y muy 'guerreros', tantoen redes sociales y en la calle, donde mueven enérgicamente pancartas de 'No a la moda en un planeta muerto' o 'El planeta no puede costear la moda'.Sus mensajes son directos, claros: "¡Comprad ética, comprad comercio justo!".Los más conocidos son los deExtinction Rebellion quehacenperformancespara llamar la atención sobre dos problemas, o dos culpables: las cadenas de ropalow cost y el sector del lujo.La moda es el segundo sector más contaminante del planeta. La moda es, para casi todos, el enemigo del planeta. Por eso muchas firmas están dando un giro radical para cambiar sus métodos de producción, transporte yventa, y para tratar, con conciencia, la gran cantidad de residuos y stocks.
Agnès B. Stella McCartney y Vivienne Westwood fueron las primeras en querer cambiar las cosas y apostar por la moda ética.YAlexander McQueen fue un visionario y ya en 2009 criticó los excesos contaminantes de la moda con sucolección 'Cuerno de la abundancia'. Stella McCartney es hoy una de las abanderadas de la moda sostenible que más influencia tiene en el mundo. "Lamentablemente la moda de lujo es tremendamente dañina y la moda, en general, tiene que ser más moderna y madurar".
Social changes
For years, the skins are the most questioned material and their use was denounced fiercely in the parades of Paris, with the PETA activists throwing paint on the coats of the most famous guests and jumping to the catwalk in the middle of the parade with bannersof 'the skins are a shame'.His actions fell into society and society changed the way of seeing luxury fashion.Gucci was the first firm to announce that he stopped using natural skins, then Chanel and Versace came, and the list has been expanding to forced marches.Natural skins have been replaced by synthetic skins, but what is better, authentic skin, responsible for the slaughter of vision and Marta, among other animals, or false skins, which emit highly polluting microplastics? What is moreurgent, protect animals or protect the planet?
LVMH and KERING are the two large fashion groups, and have gone from interested and invest in art and heritage to focus their efforts on ecology."It's just a matter of feelings," says Bernard Arnault, owner of firms like Dior.In 2019, the Fashion Pact began to be discussed, to unite all French houses in the fight for the environment."The effort has to be collective," said François Pinault.But LVMH did not step on it, because he already had his own 'Life' project
Recycle or die
Marine Serre has made a hole in fashion in a very short time and is doing her own revolution.Work with already used clothes, vintage clothes and, for example, with four sweaters a dress.His work philosophy is to take advantage of the 'old' piece and give added value to the new one: there are no two equal garments.Demna Gvasalia is one of the key names of the revolution that fashion lives, and has managed to combine a message of sustainability with a political message.He began by doing it and then, signed by Kering, in Balenciaga.His collections are anti-capitalist, pro-planeta ypro-diversidad.Recycling is the fashion verb.But there is more, and all of them speak the documentary, which collects testimonies from different professionals in the sector.
Fashion has to do homework.Has not yet approved in diversity."It's time to keep conversations with minorities from all countries and cultures, which are already invisible actors in this mega industry.Let's start now! ", Decenaomi Campbell, militant of the 'black panthers'.Since George Floyd's death almost all fashion houses have a diversity department.Many saw a great change when Virgil Oblohfue hired as creative director of Louis Vuitton's male line, although some saw it as an opportunistic gesture.The most important steps that fashion has given have been in equality and are each time the most firms that do not separate the woman's line from the man's line.Another relevant theme is feminism, movement that runs through the streets and catwalks, and which has in Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, to its greatest exponent.Today fashion, female noun, is more feminine (and feminist) than ever.
