Fashion Week Summary
The firms dialogue about the role of fashion in the new era
Sandra Arbat
Barcelona
In a world full of uncertainties, continuous changes, of raw realities that are diluted by the Facebook, Twitter and Instagram windows, people promulgate that the world will never be the same as before.How are we or what will we become after pandemic?It has been practically two years that the World War of our times came without warning and made and melted at will each of the foundations that govern a society.Health collapsed, the world economy was also done and the people of their basic freedoms were deprived, something that ended up directly influencing the mental health of almost all.
As the reflection of the creative director of Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry, points out, "fashion has insisted on its relevance during the last two years" but "you can feel like some of its main actors are no longer so convinced".And he released a question in the air: "What does fashion mean in an era in which everything constantly changes?".
Surrealism.Within the framework of the Fashion Week of the Haute Couture of Paris, Roseberry made his collection for Schiaparelli a theatrical work where the most surreal drama became fashion pieces that could be exposed in the great museums of the design.The color, which attracts feelings such as optimism and joy, disappeared and gave way to simple and white lines, white and golden protagonists.
"What does fashion mean in an era in which everything constantly changes?"
“Our latest collection was conceived in a brief period of hope.It was April, the vaccines were increasingly available, little by little you could travel more and we thought that this collective nightmare had been left behind.Now everything is different, ”he reflected.It was then that Roseberry wanted to simplify the surrealism of our times in a collection that, without the need for large volumes and brilliant rhinestones, relegated the entire weight to the accessories: artifacts that act as jewel gloves, golden crowns that simulate the halo of a saint orBustiers who look like solar systems.
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Craft.Maria Grazia Chiuri did for Dior vehemently affected.
A thesis that keeps a close relationship with the work of haute couture, since each of the collections are made by hand in the workshops of the luxury houses.There the head and hands work in unison in a place where the Savoir-Fafaire and Savoir -être are and evolve alongside.
From Chanel to Valentino, Paris's haute couture parades show a more reserved fashion
The spring/summer 2022 haute couture collection of Dior influenced the magic of embroidery and their three -dimensional effect on the human body, as well as in the power of the means to dress the woman of the 21st century.
Legacy.When the future becomes unpredictable, history remains as something impassable.This was demonstrated by an elegant and sober chanel collection, in charge of Virginie Viard, who showed the twenty -year -old dresses, tweed jacket suits and stressful infinite skirts.
Karl Lagerfeld was one of the first to highlight the importance of the spectacularity of the event -how to forget a multifaceted Grand Palais converted into a supermarket, at an airport or in the jetty of his particular cruise 'the pause' -and his faithful apprentice honored his memoryTaking Carlota Casiraghi, daughter of Carolina de Monaco and granddaughter of Grace Kelly, to parade on horseback on the catwalk.
Carlota Casiraghi on horseback or Schiaparelli's surrealism takes the role in networks
Diversity.For Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Valentino, there is no present (neither a future) without the idea of inclusion and diversity.Fashion has the responsibility of representing real beauty canons to change the image of an industry that has long enslaved women's bodies.
In 'Sewing Anatomy', the title that gives its name to the new collection for spring-summer 2022, the designer demonstrated how from fine and polished patterns, but renewed in full color, you can give free rein to intrinsic creativityIn each individual.
Seduction.For Stéphane Rolland fashion has to return to the game of sensuality, to the detriment of sexuality."I want to highlight the body of a free woman differently: project a desirable appearance and play with transparency in a subtle way, instead of being vulgar".The French firm slightly refined its designs and paraded the Nieves Álvarez model, which celebrated 30 years on the catwalks, closing the haute couture show.
