Feminine fashion

Emerging designers, an added value for brands

By hollisterclothingoutlet 03/01/2023 561 Views
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Marine Serre wins the LVMH award, the most important in fashion
This is the new Net-a-porter of demure fashion

In early November, the online luxury store Moda Operandi announced the launch of The Platform, a digital incubator for emerging brands. This new project arises after the e-commerce company detected that beyond the profits generated by its star designers —from Balmain, Dolce&Gabbana to Delpozo—, emerging firms represent 25% of its current sales. “Moda Operandi's client is a very sophisticated shopper who not only comes to us for the well-known brands, but also to discover designers who are not so common,” Deborah Nicodemus, the company's CEO, explained to Observer.com. The fact that its customers, who spend an average of $1,400 per order seven times a year, are interested in little-known brands indicates an exciting shift in the industry toward more niche shopping.Emerging designers, an added value for brands Emerging designers, an added value for brands

This new trend is also making itself felt in the world of style prescribers, who with an increasingly saturated scene have found in the new firms a way to differentiate themselves and provide added value to their followers. "It has never been so cool to wear an unknown or emerging brand," said Lisa Aiken, sales manager at The Net-a-Porter, to The Business of Fashion. You show new luxury like Mansur Gavriel, Rejina Pyo or Johanna Ortiz, the most profitable emerging firm in Moda Operandi, have experienced this phenomenon firsthand. “The visibility that influencers give me is very valuable, as it helps non-industry clients to get familiar with the brand, and it's great to see how different women interpret clothing to express their personal style,” Rejina Pyo explained to Smoda. some days ago.

Faced with this new scenario, the French luxury conglomerate LVMH already took action at the beginning of the year with the creation of a venture capital company, LVMH Luxury Ventures, aimed at investing in small and promising fashion, cosmetics or accessories. Headed up by Julie Bercovy, the group's vice president of mergers and acquisitions, and with a fund of 50 million euros, its objective is "to financially support the development of these small firms to create value," explained an LVMH spokesperson. The operation could be related to a certain exhaustion of the sector of traditional luxury brands, which have seen how the mass is diluting their exclusivity.

Emerging designers, an added value for brands

To finish closing the circle, the magazine Granary, created by alumni of the prestigious Central Saint Martins fashion design school, announced at the end of November the creation of VOID, a space for exchange and advice for emerging designers. “We realized that it is one thing to work with designers as press – highlighting and promoting their work – and another is to help them when they start their brands or are looking for a job”, explained Olya Kuryshchuk, project manager, to The Business of Fashion. The initiative, which was inaugurated with an artistic installation and which also plans to create conferences and workshops, has the support of renowned industry professionals, such as the KCD communication agency or the publisher Jefferson Hack.

Unlike The Platform, VOID takes a much more critical approach and hopes to create new spaces that challenge the beaten path of early-career designers. “Our new initiative wants to answer questions and we start with the most difficult ones. If fashion is about individuality, why do we all think there is only one path to success? Why is it so difficult today to do things differently? How can designers develop as artists when they are being offered a pre-designed path of steps to success?" they reflected from their Instagram account.

At the end of November, H&M announced the winner of its H&M Awards. The Englishman Stefan Cooke, an outstanding student at the English school Central Saint Martins, seduced a jury of experts with his interesting trompe l'oeil prints, the result of a long research process. “Above all, we were impressed by his modern attitude, his invention and ingenuity that provide endless possibilities for the future,” said Ann-Sofie Johansson, the brand's creative consultant. Cooke will spend his prize money to launch his own firm next January. The same was done by Marine Serré, the winner of the last edition of the LVMH Award, a prize endowed with 500,000 euros and with an exceptional jury that included Karl Lagerfeld and Phoebe Philo, creative director of Cèline. For Serré, beyond the financial compensation, the opportunity to show his designs to such fashion figures was priceless.

But brands don't just award prizes, they also invest money in scholarships. Versace joined the firms that contribute money to create scholarships for the fashion master's degree at Central Saint Martins in September: "There is no better way to honor the memory of Gianni than by supporting young people," declared Donatella Versace, happy to "nurture to those who will be the designers of tomorrow”.

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