Is there a war of the sexes in the fashion world?

The current creative director of Chanel, Virginie Viard, closing one of the firm's parades in 2018 with her predecessor Karl Lagerfeld.

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IK Aldama / AFP

FOTO:

IK Aldama / AFP

What is the difference between a man and a woman when designing?Do brands prefer men?

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Karl Lagerfeld

Carolina Herrera

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08 de diciembre 2019, 10:29 P. M.ALAlejandro García - La Nación (Argentina) - GDA08 de diciembre 2019, 10:29 P. M.

Is gender a determining factor when designing?The fashion history shows a long list of names of designers men of successful brands.And over time, and the death of founding names, there are still few women who are in charge of creative addresses.

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Although none is better and none is worse, things occurred like this and still continue like this. Es una cuestión que va más allá de cualquier argumento político o discriminación.Coco Chanel and Christian Dior are examples that tell the history of female fashion from two different places.When Chanel relaxed the way of dressing the women of his generation it was because he needed to breathe.He also brought his own fashion needs, empowered those women of working classes and imposed on the upper class to wear simple and comfortable clothes.Popular garments taken to social elites in the 1920s.Twenty years later, in 1947, Christian Dior, the man who loved women, broke the mold by inventing the corolla silhouette.The inspiration on how they wanted them to come from the flowers of their Granville garden (France).

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But it is clear that between a designer and a designer there is a different sensitivity, another way of seeing fashion.A subjectivity that does not necessarily recognize sex. Entre una cabeza masculina y una femenina, ¿quién diseña en función de uso y quién en función de una necesidad?Graciela Zito, alma de la firma Zito, dice que “un buen diseñador es quien tiene en cuenta ambos aspectos, más allá del género.I like to design clothes in which the woman feels comfortable and elegant.I think versatile, day and night garments ".The designer Benito Fernández also replies: "For men it is easier to design for an ideal woman".Evangelina Bomparola, Argentine designer, believes in diversity, that “it is a much more complex path than to choose simple binary systems.The real talent is up to men and women equally, with the help of the opportunity to deploy it ”. Para el diseñador Fabián Zitta, “ambos diseñan en función del uso y de la necesidad, e intervienen las capacidades creativas.You have to generate a desire for consumption through a trend, and that goes beyond gender ”.In the case of the French legacy Yves Saint Laurent, only the designers in charge of the creative direction of their brand have been men: Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford, Stefano Pilati, Hedi Slimane and Anthony Vaccarello.This reflects a clear reality: when the founders of the ‘Maisons’ die, in general, other men replace them.

Más allá del género

What is, then, the difference between a male and a female head when designing?“Fortunately, people are different, there are countless possibilities behind the binomial.And that diversity is what fills the world of nuances and options, breaks dogmas and celebrates the differences supported by tolerance as the founding matter of freedom, ”bomparola trusts.And Zitta believes: “I suppose the man designs without taking into account the clothing.It is my case, there is another freedom when designing, because it creates an imaginary possible and clothing of a female body without having inhabited it;Then, their design or design resources are not vitiated by customs ”.Benito Fernández adds that "for us, it is basically easier to take off from our aesthetics, without thinking about our virtues and defects".Por su parte, los grandes conglomerados que manejan las principales firmas de moda tienen puestos jerárquicos masculinos. François-Henri Pinault, en Kering (Gucci, Balenciaga y Saint Laurent, entre otros), y Bernard Arnault, en LVMH (Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, etc.), for instance.To say that the selection is why it is an easy answer, but it may not be correct.Evangelina Bomparola says: “I suspect that those who have the power of selection, prefer creative men.It is known that there are powerful women in the industry who have never promoted another woman.Sometimes I wonder why to understand the small print of gender solidarity ”.

For Fabián Zitta it is thus: "It seems to me that luxury brands are not expectant with the sex of those who design, but of the empathy that they can generate with the users".Graciela Zito is positive and defends: "I don't really think there is a denial to put women in the creative management position, there are currently many who occupy that role".And Benito Fernández finishes saying that "the thing is changing, it is a talent issue, not sexes".

I don't really think there is a denial to put women in the creative management position, there are currently many who occupy that role

And yes, something is changing and Paris bets on this.In addition to the consecrated Maria Grazia Chiuri in Christian Dior, the firm created by and for men, Lacoste, appointed Louise Trotter creative director, breaking with a male tradition since 1920.In the case of Chanel, 32 years passed for the brand to have a woman designer.The death of Karl Lagerfeld seemed to be the only way for Virginie Viard to go to the position where he was preparing in the shade.In Givenchy 66 years passed for Clare Waight Keller to become the first artistic director woman.The story is different in the brand of Carolina Herrera, who delivered the creative direction - after 37 years - to the American Wes Gordon, and in the Celine brand, where after the game of Phoebe Philo - who was a decade in the houseFashion - Frenchman Hedi Slimane arrived at the address.Why two men and not two women?

Diseñadores homosexuales

In the case of gay designers we enter another dimension, since, as if it were a cliché (totally demodé), many still relate the fashion industry to the male homosexual world.Does good taste come from a gay head?The Spanish editor Beatriz Miranda speaks of the gay-patriarchy and is questioned: "Why are there so many gay men linked to the fashion world in power positions?".An interesting question, but is not really true. Si bien siempre fue un tema recurrente, la sensibilidad masculina a la hora de diseñar nada tiene que ver con la orientación sexual.To say that the sensitivity of the gais is a condition ‘sine qua non’ to be a fashion designer is to revolize in a vestust and shine patriarchy.Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Christian Lacroix, Óscar de la Renta, Paul Poiret and enough more are examples of successful heterosexual designers in the fashion industry.And if not, let's do a review of the work of Pier Paolo Piccioli in Valentino, a husband and father whose wife of wife and 3 children accompanies him to how much fashion event can.Piccioli is considered the Miguel Ángel of the Industry: he surpassed his teacher Valentino Garavani.The work of these monsters was, is and will be female beauty through clothes.

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El estudio The Glass Runway, realizado en 2018 por el Consejo de Diseñadores de Fashion Americanos (CFDA por su sigla en inglés), ‘Glamour Magazine’ y McKinsey & Company, mostró que solo el 14 % de las principales marcas de ropa femenina están bajo la dirección creativa de una mujer, lo cual pareciera poco probable en una industria en la que ellas son las compradoras mayoritarias.According to figures, in 2017, women spent 159.000 million dollars in clothing, three times more than men.Alejandro Garcíala Nación (Argentina) - Gda

08 de diciembre 2019, 10:29 P. M.ALAlejandro García - La Nación (Argentina) - GDA08 de diciembre 2019, 10:29 P. M.Relacionados:

Fashion

Fashion designers

Karl Lagerfeld

Carolina Herrera

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